In the Yard  |  Walking  | Kennel/Crate  |  On the Road

Information on this page is added as I encounter questions requesting solutions an d information, and therefore is forever in flux!

The first secret to a safe, healthy and happy dog is TRAINING! GET SOME! Just the basics can make all the difference in the world. There are many theories and methods out there, something will work for every dog. One methodology that I like is the Kelley Method and Natural Dog Training by Kevin Behan. I am not an expert trainer by any means, but the psychology behind this method is superb. At The Kelley Method website you can learn about Lee Charles Kelley, his ideas and wonderful dog training mystery books and link to the Behan site as well.

The most important word in dog ownership is RESPONSIBILITY.

In The Yard:
Fences and gates:Yards that are easy for a dog to escape from are responsible for most dog bites, lost dogs, dog injuries and deaths. Your yard should be a safe and happy place for Rover. Let's start with the fence. It's purpose is to keep your dog safely inside and possible harm on the outside.
If your dog can jump the fence or gate: .....it is too low, or broken, or there is something too close to it that he is climbing on..... or Rover is part kangaroo. If the fence is too low, make it higher or replace with a higher one, no brain surgery here. Ditto, if it is broken or if he is climbing on something, fix it! or move it! If Rover is part kangaroo and city building codes prevent you from making the fence higher, there are two good options. You can install a "lip" on the fence that cants inward. It will not thwart all dogs, but can snag most (and sometimes wandering cats too). For those dogs that excel in fence jumping, the safest solution is to install a solid, safe dog run with a ceiling panel for the times when Rover can't be supervised.

Fence types:

• Block or stone: The best fence is block or stone construction. Not only is it the strongest and least destructable, but it sits on a concrete footing that is buried at least 10 inches below the surface and should stop most "diggers". Unless Rover can use a pickaxe or sledgehammer, he won't be going through or under this type of fence.


• Chain link: The next best is chain link or other heavy grade fabricated metal. Make sure that the posts are set in concrete and the method of connection used requires bolts and not staples. Make sure that a stiffening bar (BAR not wire) is run through the bottom and top of chain link to help keep it from being bent at the edges. SInce the bottom of this type of fence is above ground, you still face the problem of "digging under". Pouring a concrete footing/curb at least 10" deep along the fence line is the best way to solve this. You can also bury a heavy, small gage wirecloth barrier (small enough grid to keep from getting paws caught) around the perimeter. I would suggest at least 15 " down, staked at regular intervals, and connected to the above ground fence.


• Wood: Wooden fences get broken, chewed and dug under. The smaller the slats/boards, the more easily they are broken. Wide tongue-and-groove boards are best. Again, set posts in concrete and follow tips on re-inforcing the "dig line" as above. Repair any damage immediately!


• Plastic/PVC/composit: Easy to break and chew, as it ages it gets more brittle and connectors such as screws and bolts can wear through the material, creating openings.


• Barbed wire: NEVER! If this is your solution, you should not have a dog...or kids....and probably shouldn't date.


• Electric underground, invisible fences: Again, NEVER! Some people swear by them. I would NEVER subject my dog to something so potentially dangerous and uneccesary. They are often breached if the battery in the collar device is not maintained and by sheer determination in extreme situations. One thing they cannot do is stop other animals and humans from coming into the fence area that might harm your dog.

Gates types:

• Iron: The best is an iron gate with a pattern close enough that your dog can't squeeze out or get his head caught in and a small animal or small child can't squeeze in. Iron gates are relatively inexpensive, cannot have holes chewed in them and don't warp. Invest. Most home improvement stores sell pre-fab iron gates and fence panels that are relatively inexpensive and easily installed.


• Chain link: Next best, but make sure that both top and bottom have reinforcment. The down side is that chain link is easy to cut with bolt cutters and can be bent to form an opening if one or more ties are broken.


• Wood: Can rot, get brittle with age, be chewed and broken easily. Don't foprget that insects can also destroy wood.


• Plastic/PVC/composit: Easily borken, get brittle with age, can be chewed.

Gates in general:

• If you have double gates make sure one or both gates have a large cane bolt set into a concrete sleeve in the ground and use it! Because both sides move, a little push on a double gate can either completely compromise your locking device or allow enough room for Lady to squeeze her cute little butt through. By stabilizing at least one side you take the worst of the "play" out of the connection between the two movable panels.


• Set your gates to open inward...only. Most dogs can push a gate open, they have a lot harder time pulling it toward them.


• Install auto closing mechanisms to guard against the "oops" factor, especially if you have kids.


• Best of all, use a good strong latch and keep it oiled so it works properly. Padlock latched gates or install an exterior deadbolt, keep them locked!

All gates:

• In situations where you have an access gate at the front of your house's side yard, you might also consider installing a second gate/fence toward the rear of the house. This can serve two functions: First it provides a "safety stop" in case the outside gate is left open. It also provides a "neutral" area that allows you to open the main gate and move the lawnmower, trash can and other items through the gate without worrying about Fido zipping past you while you are in the process. Second, it keeps your dog from "hanging out" at the gate that is exposed to the "public" side of your house in most urban and suburban neighborhoods. This makes it harder for someone to harm your dog through the gate or toss something harmful over it within your dog's reach....Yes, it does happen.


• A concrete pad at the gate line will make it immpossible for Rover to dig under the gate. Even if your rent, a couple bags of concrete or some heavy paving stones set under the the gate opening and extending a couple of feet into the yard area can usually outwit most diggers. Most dogs get out through the gate by either chewing a hole, digging under or after a human has not closed and locked it properly.


• If your meter readers, pool boy and gardener need access to your yard, a nice safe dog run is still you best bet! If your meters are in a place that you can install your main gate or a secondary gate between the main part of your yard and the meter you can at least solve the meter-reader problem.

Walking:

• Leashes: Most states have leash laws. If you are walking your dog in any setting where there are private homes, businesses or any other commerce that will bring you in contact with people, your dog should always be on a leash, no matter how well trained you think he is. Good training can disappear in an instant if the animal is frightened or distracted by something challenging. This is not just for the safety of other people, but for your pet's safety. It only takes a few seconds of distraction and a few feet of travel for a dog to be hit by a truck or otherwise harmed. Having control of your dog in public is safest for him and for you. No matter how sweet he is, the wrong signal or movement from another dog or human can provoke the most docile dog to bite, it's just instinct. Your dog may become the biter or the bitee. If another dog attacks your dog you may stand a better chance warding of the attack or breaking it up if yours is connected via leash.

Kennelling/crating:

• Owning and using a kennel/crate can save you a lot of heartache and help to protect your dog. Rosie has always slept in her crate at night so that we know her special leg is not at risk from becoming caught or stepped on. Crating your dog at night, preferably in the same room you sleep in, has many benefits.


• If the dog is prone to chewing it will save your furniture and other belongings while you cannot supervise. It may also save him from swallowing something dangerous and becoming ill without your knowledge.


• Dogs that learn to kennel usually won't defecate and urinate where they sleep, crating can be helpful during the housebreaking stages.


• In an emergency, such as fire or earthquake, you will always know right where he is. In an earthquake he will be safer from falling objects in a nice kennel. He will be unable to bolt from fear and become lost somewhere in the house. This is especially important if you have a large or two story home. Locking him in the spare bedroom is not "just as good". Access to that room may be blocked and you may not have the time to get to Fido's room or may get hurt in doing so.


• Never use the crate as a place of punishment. This should be a safe haven that your pet wants to go to. Teach him that it is a safe positive place by luring him in with a treat and/or toys. Stroke and praise him while he is inside, but don't close the door at first. Work up to getting the door closed and giving him a treat through the door. Start by just leaving him a few minutes and work up to extended periods. If he is especially anxious about being inside take more time to sit with him with the door open, then sit with the door closed. This may help to assuage his fears of separation slowly so that you can work up to leaving him crated without anxiety.


• Dogs that learn to crate are more comforable and less stressed when medical care requires a vet stay. Use your crate as a safe haven, a nice place to visit for a needed solution. Don't make it the place you send Mr. Buttons when you just don't want to be bothered with him or when he has misbehaved.


• If you do not have hardwired smoke alarms attached to your alarm system, teach your dog to crate at night. The battery operated alarms only serve to wake you up, if you remember to keep the batteries fresh, and aren't terribly loud. They do not call the fire department and a fire usually has more time to become dangerous before you can get your act together and get out. This makes it even more crucial to have you dog safely contained right next to you so you can get him out with you. In widespread emergencies, shelters often will not accept pets, so if you can get him out in his crate you will increase his subsequent safety as well. Always keep a leash tied to the handle of the crate.

On the road:

Recently a forum group broached the subject of locking the car windows so that the dog could not accidently operate the them when he put his paws on the door while sticking his head out the window. The dangers were discussed and one member told of her dog getting it's head caught by pressing the window control. Dogs should NOT be allowed to ride with their heads out the window. PERIOD. Debris, insects and just the rush of the air itself can cause damage to the eyes. Furthermore, dogs can be injured or even decapitated in the event of even a small accident. Use the same care that you would for your child. Here are just a few links to support the issue:

• Barkbytes.com/medical
• MSN.com Auto Safety
• LakeTahoe SPCA SummerPetSafety To follow: Don't drive with your dog unrestrained. Use a doggie seatbelt or put them in an approved crate. This will not only save your dog injury, but could save your life as well. In many states it is required by law! Here is a good article on the subject: Entrepreneur Magazine article

Coming: In the house, Collars and Leashes, Toys and.......suggestions?