What Every Dog Owner Should Know
To Keep Their Pet Happy and Safe
Last updated September 23, 2006

Information on this page is added as I encounter questions requesting solutions and information, and therefore is forever in flux!

The first secret to a safe, healthy and happy dog is TRAINING! GET SOME! Just the basics can make all the difference in the world. There are many theories and methods out there, something will work for every dog. One methodology that I like is the Kelley Method and Natural Dog Training by Kevin Behan. I am not an expert trainer by any means, but the psychology behind this method is superb. At The Kelley Method website you can learn about Lee Charles Kelley, his ideas and wonderful dog training mystery books and link to the Behan site as well.

The most important word in dog ownership is RESPONSIBILITY. Click here soon for some thoughts on it and then keep reading below.

In The Yard:
Fences: Yards that are easy for a dog to escape from are responsible for most dog bites, lost dogs, dog injuries and deaths. Your yard should be a safe and happy place for Rover. Let's start with the fence. It's purpose is to keep your dog safely inside and possible harm on the outside.

If your dog can jump the fence: it is too low, or broken, or there is something too close to it that he is climbing on..... or Rover is part kangaroo. If the fence is too low, make it higher or replace with a higher one, no brain surgery here. DItto, if it is broken or if he is climbing on something, fix it! or move it! If Rover is part kangaroo and city building codes prevent you from making the fence higher, there are two good options. You can install a "lip" on the fence that cants inward. It will not thwart all dogs, but can snag most (and sometimes wandering cats too). For those dogs that excel in fence jumping, the safest solution is to install a solid, safe dog run with a ceiling panel for the times when Rover can't be supervised.

Fence types:
The best fence is block or stone construction. Not only is it the strongest and least destructable, but it sits on a concrete footing that is buried at least 10 inches below the surface and should stop most "diggers". Unless Rover can use a pickaxe or sledgehammer, he won't be going through or under this type of fence.

The next best is chain link or other heavy grade fabricated metal. Make sure that the posts are set in concrete and the method of connection used requires bolts and not staples. Make sure that a stiffening bar (BAR not wire) is run through the bottom and top of chain link to help keep it from being bent at the edges. SInce the bottom of this type of fence is above ground, you still face the problem of "digging under". Pouring a concrete footing/curb at least 10" deep along the fence line is the best way to solve this. You can also bury a heavy, small gage wirecloth barrier (small enough grid to keep from getting paws caught) around the perimeter. I would suggest at least 15 " down, staked at regular intervals, and connected to the above ground fence.

Wooden fences get broken, chewed and dug under. The smaller the slats/boards, the more easily,they are broken. Wide tongue-and-groove boards are best. Again, set posts in concrete and follow tips on re-inforcing the "dig line" as above. Repair any damge immediately!

Barbed wire: NEVER! If this is your solution, you should not have a dog...or kids....and probably shouldn't date.

Electric underground, invisible fences. Some people swear by them. I would NEVER subject my dog to something so potentially dangerous and uneccesary. They are often breached if the battery in the collar device is not maintained and by sheer determination in extreme situations. One thing they cannot do is stop other animals and humans from coming into the fence area that might harm your dog.

Gates:
The best is an iron gate with a pattern close enough that your dog can't squeeze out or get his head caught in and a small animal or small child can't squeeze in.

From here, chain link and then wood follow. Iron gates are relatively inexpensive, cannot have holes chewed in them and don't warp. Invest.

If you have double gates make sure one or both gates have a large cane bolt set into a concrete sleeve in the ground and use it! Because both sides move, a little push on a double gate can either completely compromise your locking device or allow enough room for Lady to squeeze her cute little butt through. By stabilizing at least one side you take the worst of the "play" out of the connection between the two moveable panels.

Set your gates to open inward...only. Most dogs can push a gate open, they have a lot harder time pulling it toward them.

Install auto closing mechanisms to guard against the "oops" factor, especially if you have kids.

Best of all, use a good strong latch and keep it oiled so it works properly. Padlock latched gates or install an exterior deadbolt, keep them locked!

In situations where you have an access gate at the front of your house's side yard, you might also consider installing a second gate/fence toward the rear of the house. This can serve two functions: First it provides a "safety stop" in case the outside gate is left open. It also provides a "neutral" area that allows you to open the main gate and move the lawnmower, trash can and other items through the gate without worrying about Fido zipping past you while you are in the process. Second, it keeps your dog from "hanging out" at the gate that is exposed to the "public" side of your house in most urban and suburban neighborhoods. This makes it harder for someone to harm your dog through the gate or toss something harmful over it within your dog's reach....Yes, it does happen. Most home improvement stores sell pre-fab iron gates and fence panels that are relatively inexpensive and easily installed.

A concrete pad at the gate line will make it immpossible for Rover to dig under the gate. Even if your rent, a couple bags of concrete or some heavy paving stones set under the the gate opening and extending a couple of feet into the yard area can usually outwit most diggers.

Most dogs get out through the gate by either chewing a hole, digging under or after a human has not closed and locked it properly. If your meter readers, pool boy and gardener need access to your yard, a nice safe dog run is still you best bet! If your meters are in a place that you can install your main gate or a secondary gate between the main part of your yard and the meter you can at least solve the meter-reader problem.

Walking:
Most states have leash laws. If you are walking your dog in any setting where there are private homes, businesses or any other commerce that will bring you in contact with people, your dog should always be on a leash, no matter how well trained you think he is. Good training can disappear in an instant if the animal is frightened or distracted by something challenging. This is not just for the safety of other people, but for your pet's safety. It only takes a few seconds of distraction and a few feet of travel for a dog to be hit by a truck or otherwise harmed. Having control of your dog in public is safest for him and for you. No matter how sweet he is, the wrong signal or movement from another dog or human can provoke the most docile dog to bite, it's just instinct. Your dog may become the biter or the bitee. If another dog attacks your dog you may stand a better chance warding of the attack or breaking it up if yours is connected via leash.

Kennelling/crating:
Owning and using a kennel/crate can save you a lot of heartache and help to protect your dog. Rosie has always slept in her crate at night so that we know her special leg is not at risk from becoming caught or stepped on. Crating your dog at night, preferably in the same room you sleep in, has many benefits. If the dog is prone to chewing it will save your furniture and other belongings while you cannot supervise. It may also save him from swallowing something dangerous and becoming ill without your knowledge. Dogs that learn to kennel usually won't defecate and urinate where they sleep, crating can be helpful during the housebreaking stages. In an emergency, such as fire or earthquake, you will always know right where he is. In an earthquake he will be safer from falling objects in a nice kennel. He will be unable to bolt from fear and become lost somewhere in the house. This is especially important if you have a large or two story home. Locking him in the spare bedroom is not "just as good". Access to that room may be blocked and you may not have the time to get to Fido's room or may get hurt in doing so.

Never use the crate as a place of punishment. This should be a safe haven that your pet wants to go to. Teach him that it is a safe positive place by luring him in with a treat and/or toys. Stroke and praise him while he is inside, but don't close the door at first. Work up to getting the door closed and giving him a treat through the door. Start by just leaving him a few minutes and work up to extended periods. If he is especially anxious about being inside take more time to sit with him with the door open, then sit with the door closed. This may help to assuage his fears of separation slowly so that you can work up to leaving him crated without anxiety. Dogs that learn to crate are more comforable and less stressed when medical care requires a vet stay. Use your crate as a safe haven, a nice place to visit for a needed solution. Don't make it the place you send Mr. Buttons when you just don't want to be bothered with him or when he has misbehaved.

If you do not have hardwired smoke alarms attached to your alarm system, teach your dog to crate at night. The battery operated alarms only serve to wake you up, if you remember to keep the batteries fresh, and aren't terribly loud. They do not call the fire department and a fire usually has more time to become dangerous before you can get your act together and get out. This makes it even more crucial to have you dog safely contained right next to you so you can get him out with you. In widespread emergencies, shelters often will not accept pets, so if you can get him out in his crate you will increase his subsequent safety as well. Always keep a leash tied to the handle of the crate.

In the car:
Recently a forum group broached the subject of locking the car windows so that the dog could not accidently operate the them when he put his paws on the door while sticking his head out the window. The dangers were discussed and one member told of her dog getting it's head caught by pressing the window control.

Dogs should NOT be allowed to ride with their heads out the window. PERIOD. Debris, insects and just the rush of the air itself can cause damage to the eyes. Furthermore, dogs can be injured or even decapitated in the event of even a small accident. Use the same care that you would for your child. Here are just a few links to support the issue:
Barkbytes.com/medical
MSN.com Auto Safety
Pet Safety
LakeTahoe SPCA SummerPetSafety

To follow: Don't drive with your dog unrestrained. Use a doggie seatbelt or put them in an approved crate. This will not only save your dog injury, but could save your life as well. In many states it is required by law! Here is a good article on the subject:
Entrepreneur Magazine article

Coming: In the house, Collars and Leashes, Toys and.......suggestions?

Triggers for illness and food warnings:

Veterinary shots including rabies and general vaccines. If your dog has recently received vaccines and behaves unusually more than 24 hours afterward (effects may appear weeks later) see your vet! Lethargy, pale gums, lack of appetite, excessive panting and urination are just some of the signs that your dog is not well. Many vets no longer recommend general vaccines (except for rabies) after middle age unless your dog is kennelled regularly or visits dog parks.

Flea sprays and shampoos whose chemicals cross the skin barrier. To be safe use only Frontline and Advantage types and make sure you get the real USDA approved thing! Boric acid powder or other "fleabuster" type carpet powders are ok too. Never mix different types of flea preparations!

Yard pesticides and weed killers of any sort. Many dogs tolerate them well. But they can kill some dogs within days. My dog is more important than my flowers. I use other methods to edge and weed. A good soap solution may take more time and effort to apply for pests, but is safer for dogs, especially for a dog with AIHA.

Onions and garlic. Onions especially are toxic to dogs. For dogs with AIHA, or at risk, they can easily trigger an episode. Eaten raw or in "bites" of prepared food from the table, they can cause sickness and death. I believe there is nothing wrong with giving my dogs "people" food in small amounts, as long as I am careful that it is not seasoned or prepared with toxic additives. Don't take risks with something that your pet will never miss in his diet.

Living outside. Dogs with AIHA should be walked and exercised as tolerated....and get fresh air, but it is a good idea not to leave them alone in the yard for long periods. An insect sting or bite can trigger an episode and kill them. Treat them like family and include them in your daily life for as long as they live, it's what they want and what we owe them.

Infections, bacteria, dental health. Any infection or bacterial intruder can trigger an episode of any auto-immune disorder. A common entry point is the mouth, it connects the outside of the dog to most of the insides! Bacteria from tooth decay and gum disease can be deadly. The gentle (awake) form of cleaning might be safe for a healthy dog, but will not always clean deeply enough. Consult with your veterinary internist and weigh the benefits and costs of anesthesia-assisted cleaning for dogs with AIHA. (Cancers that start in the mouth can spread fast and be devastating, check Fido's mouth regularly for any bumps or spots and see your vet!)

No-No's:
Household hazards to avoid.

Some common sense:
Just because it is on the internet, does not make it so. Just because it is not on the internet, does not make it so. Some of the best medical information can only be found on private and pay-for-use databases.

Use critical thinking. Does the advice come from someone trying to sell you something, or do they have something personal to gain? Question it.

Risk. Is there any? What do you gain by taking the risk? What might you lose? Is it really worth it?

"A vet said so." Yes, and they said the world was flat and Woo-suk Hwang said he cloned human stem cells too. My best advice is to research and check with several vets who specialize in the particular area and who are in the forefront of research and treatment. Not all vets will agree, not all vets are qualified, not all stay current. not all care. Some have other priorities. Barring that ever elusive crystal ball, if it is a matter of avoiding something that may be harmful to your pet, avoid the risk unless you feel your pet's quality of life will suffer without the item in question.

Grape seeds are toxic to dogs. No raisins or grapes.

Chocolate can kill a dog. Don't take a chance to see if yours is one that is sensitive to it! "I gave my dog chocolate all the time and it has never made him sick before." is one of the stupidest things I ever heard the owner of a dead dog say.

Cocoa Mulch. This popular garden product is pretty and smells great. It is made from the husks of the cacao bean, it contains theobromine, like chocolate, which when ingested, in varying quantities for differently sensitive dogs, can kill within hours.

Onions and Garlic. Toxic to all dogs, cats and livestock, offending agent: thiosulphate. There are safer and more effective flea controls that will not enter the blood stream whose dosage and concentration can be better monitored. Use caution with folk remedies that have no verified dosing data and may be toxic or interactive.

Nuts. Especially macadamia and walnuts have a variety of ill effects including tremors, weakness and paralysis primarily of the hindquarters and bladder stones.

Tobacco is toxic to dogs, eaten or inhaled (and people too!)

Radiator and transmission fluid left in the drive, even a tiny puddle.

Any chemical or cleaner left to puddle that a dog might find attractive to lap up can be toxic. Many can be toxic by inhaling or from residue left from cleaning water and food bowls, kennels and bedding.The best plan is to use cleaners specially made for kennel care and rinse well. Rabbits are sensitive to any aromatic oils in cleaners.

Any medication not prescribed by the vet, even simple things like over-the-counter pain relievers such as acetaminophen and ibuprofen. Make sure you don't drop any! Make sure you use veterinary prescribed drugs exactly as prescribed and only for the animal they are prescribed for. Consult with your vet before purchasing any medications or preparations from other sources to make sure there will not be adverse reactions with existing medications or health conditions.

Snail bait..just don't! It looks like kibble!

Any kind of rodent bait or poison, even after the rodent has consumed it, even the "cardboard-box" type traps. Most baits/killers are anti-coagulants. They keep the blood from clotting and the animal bleeds to death, often by thinning the blood to a point that the veins can no longer contain it. A cat or dog that eats or nibbles on a rodent that has been killed this way can easily meet the same death. Use the old fashioned snap traps and keep them away from paws! (and the rodents they might catch, you never know what disease they might carry!)

Rawhide. There is some difference in opinion about rawhide. I only allow my dogs to have the sort that has been ground up and looks like hamburger, and only occasionally. The office manager (for 25 years) at my vet tells me that most of the surgeries they do on stomachs and intestines are to correct perforations made by rawhide and chicken bones. Both "splinter" into sharp pieces when broken and chewed.

Therefore, ditto chicken bones!

Dog toys. Choose them well. The most common reason for veterinary abdominal surgery is that the animal has swallowed a foreign object, often from his own toy. If Cuddles is a prim little gal that likes to prance about and give her squeakie a tweek now and then, you can relax and indulge in some of the softer, less expensive toys. But if Brutus loves his toys, buy only the best and toughest toys. Look for the hard rubber and canvas, no small legs and arms, no button eyes he can chew off and swallow. If he chews his toys up an swallows the squeakers, avoid the ones with the little outside squeak valves that he will get to fast and remove the toy the minute he "breaks into" it and can start swallowing the pieces. No small balls or toys. If he likes to chew your shoes, no leather toys; your socks and other such items, no sheepskin. If you have children, train them to keep any toy that Brutus might tear up and swallow pieces of, or swallow whole, where he can't get to them! No matter how appealing the bargin bin at Walmart is, use extreme caution when buying any toy, especially the cheap ones, the cost of surgery WILL out weigh any savings!

Mushrooms of any kind growing in the lawn etc.

Poinsettia, philodenrdron, many lillies, dumb cane, pothos, mistletoe and yew berries and many other plants can cause vomiting, pain , diarrhea, seizures, coma and death. Research the commonly know culprits and "dig" deeper if your dog is prone to eating the plants and other organics in your yard. Often for these dogs a nice, safe, plant-free run is best when they are without supervision. (And might reduce your headaches due to chewed plants and furniture!)

Fruit pits. Pears, apples, plums, peaches, apricots and similar fruits contain high levels of cyanogenic glyosides, (cyanide). They are dangerous to humans and other animals as well.

The leaves of rhubarb and the leaves and stems of tomatoes are toxic for similar reasons. So is broccoli in large amounts. DItto, potato peels and green potatoes. Evolution psychologists theorize that the innate knowledge of dangerous chemicals in some foods (often fruits and vegetables that we consider to be healthy) is what makes them so unappealing to children. What is in the vegetable may not be toxic to the adult, but could be to the small child...and the dog!

Insecticides. Even for a healthy animal chemicals used to kill household and garden pests (even fleas) can make your dog sick and even kill him. Consult your vet and never use different types of pesticides in the same proximity of time or space, even flea control.

Xylitol sweetener often found in sugar-free gums and candies has been reported by the ASPCA to be toxic to dogs. This new is rather new so not a lot is known as yet.S

This page is in a rough draft and design form now and is an on going endeavor. It will be updated. Comments, suggestions and additions are welcome.

NOTHING TAKES THE PLACE OF A WELL-RESEARCHED, TRUSTED VET WHO REFERS TO A TRUSTED NETWORK OF SPECIALISTS WHEN NECESSARY!
Develop that relationship before you NEED it.

Learn WHERE your Animal Emergency is and KNOW how to get there.

Pack an emergency bag for your pets too! Leashes, meds, food, treats, bedding, bowls, water, folding kennel, first aid, bandages for feet. In an emergency or disaster, many shelters will not be prepared to house your pets.